Improvement in dress-charts



A. M. HENVILLE.

Dress-Charts.

Patented Oct. 20,1874.

INVENTOR BY M ATTORN EYS WITNESSES m: GIA PHIC CO. PHOTO LITN. 35 1 4|MK PLACE, Pl.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

AMANDA M. HENVILLE, OF CHELSEA, MASSACHUSETTS.

IMPROVEMENT IN DRESS-CHARTS.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 166,086, dated October20, 1874; application filed May 23, 1874.

To all whom t't may concern:

Be it known that I, AMANDA MALVINA HEN- VILLE, of Chelsea, in the countyof Sufiolk and State of Massachusetts, have invented a new and valuableImprovement in Dress-Outting; and I do hereby declare that thefollowin gis a full, clear, and exact description of the construction andoperation of the same, reference being had to the annexed drawingsmaking a part of this specification, and to the letters and figures ofreference marked thereon.

Figures 1 and 2 of the drawings are representations of my dress-makerschart.

This invention has relation to dress-makers charts; and it consists inthe form and novel relation of the different portions of a chart,whereby simplicity is attained, with convenient economy of space orportability, as hereinafter more fully set forth.

The object of the invention is to provide a simple and compact guide ofsmall size, by the use of which an accurate and reliable fit may besecured. It is especially adapted for the use of mothers and others notnecessarily skilled in the art of dress-making, and even fordress-makers it will be found a valuable aid.

In the accompanying drawings, the letter A designates the main portionor body of the chart, and B an extension thereof, called the dart-rule,which may be formed in one piece with the main portion, but which ispreferably cut separately, and hinged to the other part, as shown at a.The outlines of the main portion A are somewhat irregular, and may bedescribed as follows: At the opposite end from the hinge a is formed ashort rectangle, b, the longer edge 0 of which is a guide for the backof the neck, and at the same time, being placed parallel with the edgeof the goods, indicates the position of the front shoulder-rule d, whichis a concave curve running from the end of the shorter edge 0 of therectangle somewhat obliquely, and terminating in a straight edge,graduated for different sizes by means of a succession ofnumbersindicating the chest-measure, as at e, and terminating at the hinge orfold ct. Continuous with the front shoulder-rule is the outer edge f ofthe dartrule B, which is numbered, as shown, for the higherchest-measures, and to this extent forms a portion of said frontshoulder-rule. From the termination of the inner edge f of the dart-rulethe arm-size rule 9 is rounded out in convex form, as shown in thedrawings, the convexity gradually becoming less, and terminating in aslightly concave end, which is connected with the long edge 0 of therectangle by an oblique edge, It. Each edge of the dart-rule is convex,the curvature increasing toward the point is, near which is the backarmsize rule I. The front of the neck is marked through a series ofperforations, m, through the main chart A, which, to prevent wear,should be lined with metallic eyelets. The varying curvature of thelower end of the armsize rule is similarly indicated by the perforationsn. I,

The following directions are given for the use'of this chart: Take thechest-measure by passing the tape across the chest, under the arms, andacross the back, drawing tight. Take the width of the bust and of theback between the arm-sizes, and the length under the arm, and sizearound the waist. Now, place the dart-rule B with the linef an inch fromthe edge of the goods, and draw a line. Dot in the perforations for theneck. Place the shoulder-rule at the highest dot with the back-of-neckline parallel with the edge of the goods, and draw a line along the edgeof rule to the number indicating the chest-measure. Dot at half ofbust-measure taken from front edge, and form arm-sizes outside of thatdot. Get the length of waist, and draw a line. Place the dart-rule withthe portion marked back arm-size under the front one, and draw a linefor height of dart; then form the darts. Dot at half of waistmeasure,leaving off one-third for the back, and adding on the width of darts,and draw a line to this point under the arm with the dart-rule. Bycutting the cloth the complete front is made.

To form the back, place the chart upon the doubled cloth with line 0 atright angles to the folded edge of goods; draw a line along the edge ofback neclcrule, and measure from that with a tape to that part of backbetween the arnrsizes. From middle of back on this line measure halfwidth of back, and make dot. From this point use the back arm-size rulewith the tapering point up. Shape the shoulder with the dart-rule pointdown. Get the length of Waste from the dot, and draw a line.' Measurethe width, and form the line for seam under the arm.

In drafting with this chart, the modern style of short shoulder isobtained, which needs no alteration in order to fit Well.

What I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is

The chart A, having on one side the shoulder-rule d, and on the oppositeside the armsize g, and at its end the dart-rule extension B,substantially'as specified.

In testimony that I claim the above I have hereunto subscribed my namein the presence of two Witnesses.

AMANDA MALVINA HENVILLE.

Witnesses:

WM. J. FOSTER, Jos. O. FOSTER.

